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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end venues. But, nestled near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.